The Kolb Diaries: Chapter 3
From Lodore to Bright Angel

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The well-populated valley comprising Brown's Park had a number of cabins scattered here and there. Rustlers descending from the mountains, stole many of the settlers cattle that was their livelyhood forcing a few to move away leaving their cottages empty. The smell of new-mown hay permeated the air and men and women working in the fields hailed the three travelers as they drifted past. Even the beavers paused in their tracks along the banks to stare at the passersby.

The river remained low and the Kolbs continued to run onto sandbars. Jim sat on the deck of Ellsworth's boat singing as usual, his feet dangling in the cockpit, his hat sitting cockily on the back of his head. The river glided along with hardly a ripple when suddenly the boat crunched to a stop. Ellsworth worked at the oars to back off the bar but the operation was to no avail. Jim jumped into the river and pushed the craft into deeper water to allow them to continue. Lightening the boat of his weight combined with his hefty shove launched them again and the craft drifted beyond the sandbar. Jim waded after it. Then the unexpected happened; Jim disappeared. The only thing visiable was his new felt hat drifting down the river. Sandbars are tricky, sometimes shallow on the upstream end and dropping off to a great depth on the downstream side. Jim came up spitting and sputtering from his sudden cold dunking in the Green River. The hat was rescued downstream, but was never again be the same.

Close to the Colorado state line the men chatted awhile with the ranchers working in the fields. Entire families busied themselves raking hay preparing for winter. Mrs. Chew, a pleasant woman, informed Emery she and her husband had a ranch at the lower end of Lodore Canyon and invited them to stop when they got through the canyon. She was not optimistic about their making it and related to them that her two sons had tried it, but lost their boats and had to climb out and walk back to the ranch, arriving nearly starved.[1]

On Friday, 22 September, after a day of hard steady pulling on the oars they made camp number fourteen at the beginning of Lodore Canyon.[2] On both sides of the river cottonwoods and box elder trees grew in abundance and the hay ranches added a golden color to the landscape. Even the few showers they experienced did not stop the three from enjoying the ride, nor did it hinder them from taking pictures of the beauty. At Lodore post office, nothing more than a hay ranch, they chatted with the postmistress and mailed letters and some cards. Ellsworth found a postcard in a book he carried and mailed it to a friend. It pictured Coney Island at night and on it he wrote: "We have abundance of such scenery here." The lady who took the mail looked at it in amazement.[3] Never in her life had she seen a sight such as pictured on that card as the farthest she had been from home was Vernal.

Emery took the oppertunity to write Blanche:

Lodore Colo.

Sept 21 1911

Dear Blanche.-

I sent a little note today with a rancher but guess we will get to Lodore P.O. tomorrow before he gets it off. It is 9.30 and I am as tired as I care to be. Just finished sewing a gum sole on my shoes.

We are camped on as pretty a park as you can imagine. Saw some ranchers making hay so went over. It is as flat a piece of ground as I ever saw at the base of the mountain. There were about five men 4 children and the mother driving a rake to a fare you well. We got provisions from the rancher I want you to send the book to.[4] They had a little girl and it makes me want to know how my little girls are getting along without dad. We have got about 45 cts. left so you see we will be glad to get a little at Jensen. We may not be there for a couple of weeks. Made a long run today and got on quite a number sand bars. Well dear your old man is very tired and must close now. I hope everything is going well and that I will hear no bad news from you when you write with lots of love.

Emery.

The Green River flows almost directly south from Green River, Wyoming, to the Utah state line. From there it meanders through the Flaming Gorge and runs east to the Colorado line. Once into Colorado it makes a half circle loop toward the south and then turns westward back into Utah.

Clouds darkened the sky and rain splattered on the tent as the three crawled from their bedrolls and prepared to leave. The gloom of the weather and the omminous grey of the canyon looked forbodding. The boats drifted quietly away from the valley and were suddenly plunged into the depths of Lodore Canyon.[5] Here the river would give them a lesson in running rapids they would never forget. All three voyagers soon agreed the name Powell's men gave to the canyon in 1869 to be apropos, for the cataracts contained within its length seemed true to the poem The Cataract of Lodore . [6]

Soon after entering Lodore Canyon they arrived at Winnie's Grotto that Frederick S. Dellenbaugh described in his book A Canyon Voyage as "a very pleasant and tranquil place except for the roar of the water just ahead." [7] A small brook coming from high above and dropping in steps over the ledges of stone had carved the grotto from the red sandstone. The narrow entrance made it barely discernible from the river but once through, the area widened into an amphitheater over a hundred feet in diameter with walls towering 1,500 feet above. Clear cold water dropped in a little falls of the brook. Moss and ferns filled crevices in the rocks and added a brilliant green to the dark red stone walls, while the grey sky above made a dome for the ceiling.

For nine days the three men fought the rapids. They portaged and lined the boats through Upper and Lower Disaster Falls,[8] Triplet Falls[9] and Hells Half Mile[10] in a downpour of rain. Jim stopped singing and daily grew more depressed. The constant roar of the rapids, the rain, the gloom of the canyon walls added to fear affected him adversely and by the time they reached Echo Park at the end of the canyon he begged to go home. They called on the Chews at their ranch and requested them to take their third man out of the canyons to Vernal where he could return to California.[11] Emery and Ellsworth decided to go the rest of the way alone.

At Vernal Emery received a letter from his wife containing the money he requested. He wrote:

Vernal Sept. 7. 11[12]

I tried to wire you from Jensen yesterday but the wires are down on acct. of heavy rains all through this country. I know you will be anxious to get word again from us as we have been a trifle longer than we had anticepated this far, but was on acct. of the extreme low water which was a great detriment. We have had a great trip everything fine and not a pain or ache except some sore fingers and a rough seat.

When we started we used to have some fine songs by Jimmie but when we got into the canyons and running rapids our merriment from him ceased. Each day he grew more melancholy. The farther we went the worse the rapids and the harder the work. When we got into Lodore Canyon he lost his nerve entirely and must thought he would never get out as he would cry like a baby very frequent and always when we hung up on a rock, struck a bad rapid or got into any difficultly We never let him run any bad rapids but put him on shore. When we got to the end of Lodore we found a ranch where with we were able to secure transportation for him here and he only beat us to town by a few hours. It is certainly a releif to have him off our hands and we thought the trip was going to put him insane. We find we can work so much faster and with the weight of him, his bed and grub gone certainly is a lift. We now have 150 miles of hard rowing and to Green river and if you write do it quick as a little rise is on and 10 to 13 days will likely be our time there.

We have had no upsets. Twice were thrown sidewise on rocks which turned enough to allow water in our cockpits which got into back hatch. Lost our rifle & shotgun in one of these as they were not tied and sank. Our stuff got all wet and it took us a couple of days in both cases to dry. Then we have had 11 days rain. We set up our tent and build a fire in front of it. Set up our table, open our stools and we are as comfortable as at home. The scenery in beauty has been beyond any description I can give or ever seen. The trees go all along the river to the top. We have had some hard portages and very tired every night. I have gained 5 lbs I was surprised to find what a country this is as I always thought Vernal a little town about like Williams and a P.O & store at Jensen. This is true of the latter but we hired horses and came to Vernal. All the way up we go through ranches as far as the eye can see and could look back into the last canyon we ran. I never saw any where the equal of their apples & fruit of all kinds.

We cannot get sugar so must get hony to take its place. We are certainly getting our feedings and people are treating us so fine everywhere it is great. When we got to Vernal at the hotel a bunch of surveyors were sitting round a table playing cards. One of them said Well By George you fellows are the toughest we have seen for a long time. It was Duff a tall young curio man at the Hopi house who used to play rag on the piano at B.A. until all the guests from El Tovar was down to hear him.

Now if you think this town didnt have life in it last night you are mistaken. I never heard his equal for rag playing. Jimmie sang once more. We all had our little stunt and the street in front of the hotel was crowded. We just came up here for the day but was too good we stayed over night and I am writing this early this morning to get it off on the mail.

I only wish you could be here with me. It is such fine country. As to the views, I know they look a little flat but in a whole think they are the best we have had and you will find they will sell. Tell Mrs. Smith about us meeting Duff. Say what do you think; we learned that Galloway[13] was along the river some place and saw us but did not make his appearance. Isnt that small. Say nothing to anyone unless you tell Clarence. We are glad not to need anyone. We are sending our plates & films to Green River where we may develope as we do not have time on the trip. It seems hard to keep up even on our daily notes. I am certainly glad E.J. is getting along so well and hope things continue as favorable on that end as they have been. It makes me feel bad to think of that sore throat and think we should tend to it and see the cause.

Our moving picture camera is working fine and we should have some great stuff. We may send 4 rolls to Eastman and see if it can be saved. That which got wet. The boats didn't have rubber on top as they were ordered so we are buying bread boxes to keep our stuff in. Ed has become quite an expert oarsman, but one has to develope something coming through what we did. . . .

The boats loaded with a new stock of provisions including a few jars of the area's famous honey and fresh eggs packed in sawdust, they pushed off at eleven o'clock on the next leg of their trip that would take them to Green River, Utah. Tying the boats together the two ate sandwiches while drifting along. Ten miles below Jensen people gathered along the bank awaiting them. Having been advised by telephone of their coming, the women had prepared a sumptuous dinner in their honor. Emery and Ellsworth were unaware of these plans but didn't let their lunch interfere in helping reduce the quantity of food. Everyone had been busy preserving fruit and vegetables and when the Kolbs departed they carried with them a good supply of canned goods, plus some freshly churned butter, an unaccustomed treat.[14]

Entries in their journals for the next few days were brief, consisting of incomplete sentences indicating the journey from Jensen to Ouray was of mundane interest as it had been to others who made the trip in the past. Major Powell and Julius Stone had both glided through this section with little or no comment. No rapids plagued them and the river ran fast, with small islands sprinkled here and there. Cottonwood trees still retaining some of their bright yellow leaves grew along both sides of the river. Scattered groups of willow trees and considerable underbrush intermingled amongst the trees and farther from shore meadows stretched for miles. In the afternoon they stopped at a gold mining dredge and as Emery felt ill from overeating they set up camp on the opposite the bank and he went to bed. That night the pleasant weather ended when a high wind came up accompanied by rain. By morning thetemperature had dropped, the leading edge of a cold front already overdue by the middle of October. A strong wind forced them to row hard all day. Once Emery thought he saw a man on horseback in the trees back from the bank but made no comment. Later he sighted another and discovered Indians had watched them all along the way. It was dark when they reached Ouray, Utah, where they ate supper and made arrangements with a Mr. Curry, owner of a mercantile company, to replenish their supplies. Rather than sleep in the hotel they spent the night in their own beds close to the ferry that carried wagons and an occasional automobile across the river.

Emery wrote a letter to Blanche on the stationery furnished by Mr. Curry:

Ouray, Utah, Oct. 10,11

My Dear Blanche.-

We have a little rise on the river and are making up a little for lost time. We left Jensen yesterday afternoon and tonight are about 80 miles nearer Green River. So if we continue to keep up this pace we will be there in 8 or 10 days. . . . This is an Indian res. we are at now and we were glad to get here for supper. The country here is great with the bottoms filled with cottonwood wish you could see it as we do.

The people arround here have certainly been fine to us. One lady along the way yesterday have insisted on us accepting a 2 qt. jar of peaches & plums and a 1 qt. jar of picklelily. Civilization was a little too much for me at Vernal and I had a little spell last night but am over it now. We have both been fine.

We are beating Stones time now but acct. of the low water in the start he went much faster than we.

We are sending in your name the plates we developed at Vernal. Keep them in a good place. We will develope again at Green River. Our moving picture films we have sent to Eastman to develope. . . .

On 12 October they spent most of the next morning arranging and reloading the boats so that it was three-thirty in the afternoon before they broke camp. Two miles downriver they reached another ferry where they met a `cowpuncher' who asked where they were headed. When Ellsworth answered they were going to California, the man looked surprised and exclaimed, "My God! Well boys, it's yours and I hope you much success."

Late in the evening they arrived at a bend of the wall that, though uncomfortable, offered a place to throw their bedrolls. The night was clear as crystal and the stars were bright and appeared close enough to touch. Ellsworth lay awake for a time watching the falling stars and recorded sighting a comet. Emery went to sleep only to be awakened during the night by what he thought was singing. After he became fully conscious he discovered he heard coyotes. He wrote in his journal:

. . .It was not the 1st. time I had been wakened by them but on this occasion I will never forget it. Seemed that one persisted on reaching one note higher each time and what made it so strange and beautiful was on account of the echo vibrating from the walls.

I awakened Ed to hear them who agrees with me as to the beauty of the music.[15]

The trip continued to Green River, Utah. where they remained from 16 October until 20 October. Emery wrote:

. . . You asked about Lodore. Well we were in 10 or 11 days rain and had it mean that way but the meanest of all was poor Jimmie who lost his nerv and cried. You know Ed & I don't bother about a little thing like that as rain. We have had no upsets but two tilts in which the water gets or got in our cockpit then ran into the other compartment and did some damage to everything. Probably 4 rolls moving filmed damaged some.

Lost two guns. Have had much excitmaent but have not seen anything that scared us very long at a time. Say dear I wish you could have been with us from Jensen down.

We were invited to stop with one rancher the 2nd day out but it was too early in the day so we moved on. Before sunset I took a moving picture of a deer leaping & splashing accross the river after we passed him. We camped late. Next day we camped at a beautifull side stream.

Next night with a rancher who had some of the finest peaches & apples you ever saw. He was a cattle man. Next day nooned with a government irigation party. lady cook. lemon cream & O my Ed's getting fat. Next night with a rancher at dam 7 miles above here, and now I am in the dining room.

The people have certainly been the finest on earth and we surely appreciate it.

We recd. letters from Galoway so things dont look so bad. We will try and keep in the limit of this $100 you sent us so not to have so many notices come in on you. We are going to take our boats out and go over them tomorrow, and do a little fixing which the people in Racine did not do.

We have a man here who is interested in us and is taking us to every party we wish to do business with and is very nice in a strange town. We have lots of work here but will try to get out on Thursday. We have 110 miles of smoothe water before entering Cateract and then hope to be able to send you a letter out some way and let you know how we get along. We went much slower than Stone in the upper Canyons but from the last day in Lodore have beat his time before by several days.

It will be close to a month when we get to B.A. but before we leave here we will or I will give you Stones time from here to B.A. but you must not worry if we are a little longer for we are going out to the natural bridges. You never say whether anyone is interested in our trip or not. It is certain the people along the way are.

I just hope we get through with out loosing our boats but that is an easy thing to do. The worst bump I got was in quiet water.

When at the canyon I have wondered if the cottonwoods would ever cease coming down the river but I know now they will not. They are simply immense. We are not worrying about you not doing enough dear or much else except getting through. We are not sorry not to receive some of our rope postals we asked you to send us but as he spoke about a package there may be the cards are there. I will see in the morning.

Now dear I know you and Earnest lack a little as to information of what we have gone through. From Green River Wyo. We have passed through about 9 canyons. Over 400 miles and dropped in elevation just 2000 ft. of this drop 420 ft is in Lodore or part of it say 12 mi. We will now go through Hell roaring Can. Cateract Can, Glen Canyon, Marble, Grand, and Black Canyons. The drop from here to B.A. is 1544 ft, and from there to the Gulf 2436 ft. You might copy this for reference. . . .

On the seventeenth he wrote again:

Here is another day gone and nothing done but hard work. Ed developed some plates while I put our boats on dry dock and put on some oak strips over seams which they should have done. They put some on but not enough. The strips certainly save the bottom of the boats and we were pleased to see they were in so good shape as they are. We had intended to develope all our films here but we have so poor accomodation that we will likely send them to you and develope until when we get there.

We took dinner with a German woman tonight and it was fine. I just can't get enough to eat. I just gave my grocer order for the trip to you. While I think of it there is a P.O. at Hite so you may try to reach me there, it may get there before I pass. We do not look for as much trouble below as we had in Lodore, but one cannot tell. The 11 days of rain made it hard for us. We have our boxes here which are supposed to be water tight.

Yes dear I get lonesome to see you all but I just throw it off. I know how much harder it is for you at home than the one away. This is a very little town but I wish you could get some of the good things to eat in fruit etc. and everything is cheap. In regard to Earnest we would be glad enough to keep him if he fixes it with the folks.

Say dear wouldn't you like me to rub my nice beard on your face it is a peach.

We will have a couple hundred pounds we will freight from here home, over stock of plates and things we can do without.

When you write to Hite tell me if much interest is taken in our trip. . . . We find about all of Cateract Canyon can be walked. . . .

We expect to leave here tomorrow noon . . . .

Ellsworth wrote Blanche on 19 October:

Dear Blanche:-

Emery is in bed and I thought I had better drop you a line . . . Emery says you are worrying because business is not what's the use? You know we don't care as we expect it at this time and if the business is not there you can't make them buy. I'll give you something real to worry about. Emery can't get enough to eat. Fact. We are getting our meals at a boarding house run by a German woman who sets the best table you ever saw and half an hour after he has eaten he will be sneaking around to a restaurant for some pie & coffee and such like. I never saw him so fat. We could not get away to-day. Leave tomorrow A.M. early. We have been tinkering on the boats putting oak strips on the bottom which was to be done by the factory but was not and other little preperations.

I was under the impression that the Denver bill for the shutter was paid but suppose I am mistaken. If you have last months statement where you can see it you might look it up. The bill for case of plates and the two Abercrombies should be paid at once if possible.

Don't let the books worry you. Figuring is always hard and the easy way is to sum up the cash once a week and divide it up for the week. It certainly does take money to do this sort of thing.

This is the first place where have not had to get someone to cash a check and we are going to keep what we have with us as it is certainly inconvient to be without it as we have found. We are sending our films and plates and a lot of stuff including two cases unexposed plates to G.C. More bills.

I suppose Emery told you that as far as we were concerned Ernest has a job. The only thing is to get Mamma's consent. She told me when I was home she did not want us to take here last one away.

Glad to hear you are getting along so well. The weather is a little cool tonight and we will be glad when we get into the Canyons again. We only have 40 miles of rough water in the next 320 which means hard rowing, sticking on shoals etc. as the water is low again. The high water certainly made it fine for us. The news papers, always on the lookout for something sensational has made as much as possible out of our little tilts and makes them look real thrilling but there has not been anytime when we did not feel master of the situation and posed for pictures in the worst rapids. This is the place where Russell & Monnett, Stanton & Brown, and the Best expidition started. They did not get the benefit of the experience of the upper canyons. We have descended 2000 ft. and it is only 4000 ft from here to the coast and we don't expect near as much trouble below as there is more water. We had a hard time of it until after the rains. I don't know whether I will want to go back to the Canyon or not after this. I suppose everyone I know has left and I think I will apply to Galloway as an apprentice.

We wish we knew if we were getting anything with the Moving Picture machine but we will have our trip and won't have to tell tourists that "we intend taking the trip someday."

. . . I hope you don't have to work too hard. Take things as they come and don't worry.

We hear Hite is a P.O. Hite, Utah. Write there at once and let us know how it goes.

The Kolbs intended to leave Green River on the 19th but were delayed until the next day. While eating breakfast at the boarding house, Emery wrote one more note to Blanche:

We did not get off yesterday and are just finishing breakfast to leave now Friday. We have got quite a load and have to take a couple fellows several miles so don't expect to make much time. As to when we will get home you know how things go. My opinion is a month but I would like to get there for Thanks Giving. We can write you from Hite and give you probably a better idea . . . .

Well we see the papers are giving us a little advertisment.

We hate to leave the good cooking but then we have a nice layout ourselves. There is a thin sheet of ice this morning and we will be glad to get in the canyons again.

We will try to make the bridges but don't be dissapointed if we are not to you in Nov. 15 or 20th for we must make the pictures as we come to them. . . .

The Coconino Sun in Flagstaff ran a front page article in the paper 20 October 1911:

MAKING PERILOUS JOURNEY

Kolb Brothers Write Last From

Jensen ,Utah, on Way Down

Colorado River

A postal card dated at Jensen, Utah, from the daring Kolb Bros. photographers, who have under-taken the job of securing moving pictures of the Grand Canyon from a boat, was received by the Sun this week, which says:

"We have had a successful trip thus far in our boats. Plenty of excitement, but boats still riding dry. Our third party would weep like a child when we got into tight places. We sent him home 155 miles overland to rail. We two will continue trip alone.

Kolb Bros.

The fact that the Colorado river through the Grand Canyon has never been navigated but once and then in specially built boats made for Major Powell by the United States government, will give a person some idea of the perilous undertaking. It is ten chances to one that this card may be the last ever heard from the intreprid adventurers.

They left Green River with passengers R. Woodruff and Ingrem, men they had befriended during their stay. The extra menrode with them to near the mouth of the San Rafael River about twenty miles downstream. [16]

Just before they arrived at Labyrinth Canyon they camped at a ranch owned by an enthusiastic riverman named Wolverton. A number of government surveyors were there and the Kolbs spent an interesting evening swapping yarns of their experiences, Emery and Ellsworth telling tales of the upper canyon regions that topped them all. Wolverton inspected the boats as thoroughly as if he were going to make the trip himself and decided they were all right except for being too short for the heavy rapids of the Colorado River below. He felt the Lodore rapids had been a good experience but warned them the ones to come were of no comparison. Such information was welcomed but not discouraging.

The walls of Labyrinth Canyon were low and beautifully carved by the winds and water.[17] The river wound around and around and sometimes it appeared as though it would meet itself as the channels were separated by only a thin wall. On occasion a narrow beach formed between the river and the walls--again the water ran deep from wall to wall. Now and then a long gentle curve created a peninsula where willow trees grew and as the bank receded toward the cliffs scrub oaks found a footing in the crevices of rock. The river had cut many caves and deep alcoves as it sped along and smaller canyons entered from both sides of the main canyon. Where the walls dropped low naked rocks and cliffs could be seen in the distance and farther beyond were mountains with their white caps of snow glistening in the sun against a deep blue sky. At sunset the travelers camped at a big rock near the upper part of Double Bow Knot. Using paint Juluis Stone left two years before Ellsworth wrote the name DEFIANCE on the bow of his boat because he said,"Nobody loves me."[18]

They traveled through Hell Roaring Canyon without incident. Camp for the night was close by a formation Powell had named Buttes Of The Cross.[19] After rowing a mile or two the next morning, Emery set up the cameras to photograph the Buttes. The river took a sharp turn directly east for several miles with only a thin wall dividing it from itself in its course toward Stillwater Canyon. Here the carvings of nature in lone standing rocks were numerous and the walls closed in more than before, coming right down to the water's edge leaving only a strip of blue sky visible above. At an occasional break willows grew in profusion. By afternoon the walls rose even higher and the peculiar forms gave the brothers considerable amusement identifing the shapes as Happy Hooligans, ladies with Merry Widow hats, school rooms with all the occupants, and about anything else possible to dream up. A journal entry stated:

We kept on and on but still we could not ever get a good landing. At one point we see the dim forms of ladders high up the sides of the red wall and here make a trial at landing so as to picture the ladders and the ruins of the dwellings, but the bank was so steep we had to give it up. We finally find a rock where we land and tie up for camp. On climbing up the bank see the track of men of recent imprint. Also [on] the little flat above just beside the wall is the ashes of a recent fire with potato pealings near it. As yet we have no idea of who they may be. (Bees on willows.[)][20]

After a two-hour run the next morning the current became swift with whirls and boils and a constant churning, indicating the junction of the Grand was near.[21] The surrounding area was rock: rock plateaus, rock tables, terraces of rock and rock crags, all was solid naked rock. There were no trees, not even the struggling junipers, and no moss or lichen grew. They made camp on a huge sandbar on the west side of the river and after an early lunch the two worked their way upstream a short distance to where Powell and Dellenbaugh had climbed to the top. Here the walls were 1,500 feet high and getting to the rim was no trifling matter. The one-armed Major Powell had made it and Wolverton mentioned he also had gone out at this point. At the summit the view was overwhelming. Branching canyons split the rocky floor, some several hundred feet deep, dark and crooked and so eroded that the bottom could not be seen. Some could be crossed with ease but others were too wide to attempt. Gigantic boulders scattered here and there indicated a continuous breaking away of the cliffs, the constant change of nature. The rocks were gray or white color while the walls of the canyon a thousand feet below were dark red or chocolate brown. To the south beyond the river gorge, tall spires gave the illusion of a city of churches. Beyond were the Blue Mountains and to the east barely visible through the haze the La Sal range. Nearest to them on the west loomed the Henry Mountains already with a covering of snow, and directly below was the Colorado River, muddy and forbidding. Ute Indians called this The Land of Standing Rocks. By the time they returned to the river the sun had left the depths and twilight settled in.

In their explorations of Wednesday the 25th, Emery and Ellsworth discovered an inscription painted on a large boulder by members of the ill-fated Brown & Stanton survey expedition in 1889 as they passed this point. It read: "A 81 + 50 Sta. D.C.C. & P.R.R."[22] and marked the beginning of the famous survey to build a railroad through the canyons to California.

While Emery packed the camp gear that cloudy October morning, Ellsworth painted their names beneath those of the survey crew. This done, they were ready to start the day's adventure in a sprinkling of rain.[23]

Emery pulled his boat into the junction of the Grand and the Green rivers while Ellsworth manned the moving picture camera.[24] The rapids came fast. They checked each by pulling to the shore and walking along the bank to make sure they could run safely. In all they counted forty-three rapids in Cataract Canyon and were proud to say they ran them all.

In Narrow Canyon the walls were steep with the river almost filling the chasm between them and upon calling out, the sound of their voices could be heard for a long time echoing back and forth. At one place they stopped to photograph the Henry Mountains to the north, and by noon they reached the junction of the Dirty Devil River.[25] Beyond the Dirty Devil the walls on the north side of the river dropped low and the area appeared as hills of bare sandstone. A narrow fringe of willows and small shrubs grew at the water's edge and a scant accumulation of sagebrush, prickly pear cactus and bunchgrass covered the higher ground. Less than two miles farther they reached Hite Ranch. This lonely spot in a desolate world of rock had been the haven for the survivors of at least two expeditions that had met disaster in Cataract Canyon. In both instances the men who reached the ranch were on the verge of starvation. John Hite kept a record of all known parties who attempted to go through the canyons and had many interesting tales to tell. Of all those who had attempted the trip less than half had succeeded without wrecking boats or losing a life.[26] Hite had read in the newspapers about their coming and gave them a cordial greeting.

Taking advantage of the post office here Emery again wrote home:

Nov. 1st 1911

Dear Blanche.

I guess you will be glad to know we have just arrived at Hite. 2.30 P.M. We have just had the finest success any one could ask for. Have ran every rapid in Cateract and hardly touched a rock. Edith and the Defiance don't show what they came through. Yesterday we certainly rambled. Came through some of the worst of all rapids. Our boats leaped and plunged like bucking bronchos. You can feel pretty sure that you will see a camp fire in B.A. Creek from about any time after the 15th. Can tell you better from Lee's Ferry.

We have found out what our boats will do and where there are not rocks will ride any kind of water. One of Stones boats was left here and in comparing them find to be a frail craft in comparison. Hite just now said You boys certainly have the best boats ever put on for the trip and I've seen all of them but Powell's. We are glad some of our film sent to Eastman was saved as we thought it would be lost. Our new boxes keep everything perfectly dry and our cameras are just working fine. We feel proud of our success in Cateract as there was some angry rapids. We are extremely carefull always having our preservers on, and then we know our boats can't sink, so just keep on with your good faith like you always have and that only a dear brave wife could that we will come out with a dry deck.

We have not had the least kind of bad luck since in Lodore but we have had much excitment and certainly for sheer walls, arches, domes, towers and a wicked river, Cateract is beyond Grand Canyon. What pleases me most is that we are this far and everything is OK. with you all. Just think by the time this reaches you I will be in the land where we can both look at Greenland Point. You on one side and I on the other.

We ran on a fellow in Cateract just drying out all his stuff. Only in the head of the canyon. He was a man used to rivers but had no idea of where he was or what he was up again. He had a frail boat with quite a load and lined what rapids he went over as his boat was open. We offered to carry him through but he refused even though we told him of his perdicament. There are rapids and miles of canyon he cannot get over in his shape and though he promised faithfuly to write, he will never have the chance I think. I never expect to hear from him.[27]

With our boats we are having just the right stage of water to make a successfull run.

I am glad there is a P.O. at Lee's Ferry. Wish you could have Reed or some one camped at the end of Hances trail to make a moving picture of us running the Sockdologer rapid. When you see the big fire down in B.A. creek let it be known the same evening at Hotel. It will be in that little place where we turn the glass and we will sort of clear things up in our boats to run to the trail the next day.

I have got to be quite a cheff and you aught to see some of the dishes I get up.

We have certainly lived fine and our camp stuff is just right. Ed and I get along dandy when we haven't any one else to bother with. This is a sort of little ranch on the river and just out of Cateract below the Dirty Devil. . . .

The Kolb's mailed a letter to the Coconino Sun from Hite that the newspaper published on 17 November 1911.

DARING VOYAGERS HEARD FROM AGAIN

Kolb Brothers Reach Hite Utah-Find Stranded Man Who Refuses Help - Will Try to Reach Bright Angel About Nov. 15

Hite, Utah, Nov. 2,'11.

Editor Coconino Sun:

Arrived here yesterday eve.

Boats and cameras came through Cataract Canyon successfully.

One boat got away, empty, plung-ing over two rapids before we re-covered it. Each of us lost one extra oar.

Heavy waves tore oars from our hands on several occasions. So severe is this jolt that the oak for oar locks were split. Another socket and extra oars have prevented serious trouble quite frequent.

The 10th Rapid in Cataract br-ought us upon a lone un-fortunate man whose tracks we had seen above.

He was on shore with all his grub and clothes strewn around after being swamped in the rapid we had just descended. His frail, open boat could only be lined around the rapids.

We offered our assistance in reaching Hite and even though we read to him of Powell's and other trips, he refused any aid. He was absolutely ignorant of what he was into and will surely come to the same end as dozens of others have with such a craft.

Two parties last year started in Cataract and have not been heard of and with such a boat as his the heavy waves will knock it to pieces in the first rapid he is compelled to run. Only a few miles below him, the water simply drops, sucking every drop from the shore, then hemmed in by sheer walls, plunges over a steep line of boulders. Having successfully made the upper canyons, we are now on the stretch where Best, Brown, Stanton, Russell and many others attempted. Stanton's, Stone's, Powells and Russell's parties being the only ones getting through. They all had their boats destroyed before reaching Needles.

We leave for Lee's Ferry today and providing success expect to reach Bright Angel about the 15th inst. We will then continue to the Gulf.

Very respectfully,

Kolb Bros.

The water was moving rapidly the next day so only enough rowing was required for steering the boat. Occasionally they stopped to take pictures and at one point they took a stereographic picture of some ancient Indian cliff dwellings on the rocky cliff close by. It did not take long to reach Bert Loper's ranch where they pulled the boats to the bank. The Loper ranch was tidy with fruit trees and a garden. A couple horses and some chickens populated the area around the house. Finding no one they moved on downriver. The water just below gave them the thrill of a little riffle and then smoothed out once more.

Cass Hite, brother of John Hite, located his ranch and mining operation a short distance downriver from Loper's place. Before they reached there, Loper hailed them from the river's edge, introduced himself, mentioned reading about their trip through the canyons, and said he was interested in knowing about their experiences. Loper got into Emery's boat and all three rowed across to Cass Hite's ranch.

Cass Hite was an old-timer who had followed the crowd of prospectors and pioneers west in search of gold. After arriving in the area he explored extensively around Navajo Mountain, discovered the White Canyon Natural Bridges in southern Utah in the early 1860's[28] and later settled along the Colorado River a few miles south of his brother's place, set up his placer dredge and established a ranch that he call Tick a Bo,[29] a Ute Indian word meaning 'friendly.' Hite lived up to the name and became a good friend of many of the western Navajos who called him 'Hosteen pes'laki' Silver Man.

Loper wanted to hear what the Kolbs knew of the trip Russell, Monnette and he had started through the canyons. He stated they received the news at Hite but it was usually a little old when it reached them. Loper felt they did him an injustice by telling the press he lost his nerve and left the expedition. According to the Kolbs the article misrepresented the truth for both Russell and Monnette praised Loper regarding his boatmanship.

Loper explained to them that his boat received rough treatment in the lower part of Cataract Canyon and had to be repaired. He advised his companions to go on and to wait for him at Lee's Ferry. The repairs took longer than expected and he sent a note in care of the post office at Lee's Ferry explaining the delay. At that time the government had closed the post office and Russell and Monnette never received the information. Loper continued downriver and arrived at the Ferry a short time after his companions left. At this point he felt the best thing he could do would be to turn around and head back toward Hite where he set up his dredge.

After Hite had loaded them down with fresh fruit from his orchard, the travelers set out at ten o'clock the following morning.

Three days later Emery recorded in his journal:

Mon. 6th.

We find in the morning to be just a little above the Crossing of the Fathers. Climb up about 800 ft. Hear pounding and blasting in the distance.

Leave 9:30 and are at Warm Creek before noon where we discover the pounding was the building of a steam boat for the Gold Co. at Lee's Ferry. . . .[30]

This came as a surprise. A steamboat was completely unexpected this far up the Colorado River. Seventeen men worked on the half-constructed boat, driving spikes into the heavy planks of the bottomand the sound echoed through the canyon like a small cannon.[31] Flat-bottomed as all river boats, it was about sixty feet from stern to bow, and was to be used to haul coal from a mine in Warm Creek Canyon to a dredge at Lee's Ferry. Charles H. Spencer, the owner of the dredge ordered the steamboat built in San Francisco. Here it was completely assembled and then taken apart so the pieces could be shipped overland to Salt Lake City by rail. Wagons then hauled the material over some of the ruggest country in the world through southeastern Utah to Warm Creek Canyon and the building site. That alone was an achievement that bordered on the impossible.

Some of the workmen were from Flagstaff and had received a copy of the paper which carried the article the Kolbs had sent from Green River with the added comment that it could be the last message anyone would hear from them. After a good meal with the employees the Kolbs moved on to reach Lee's Ferry by nightfall. As they neared the Ferry the walls of the canyon grew higher, and the river ran slow requiring hard rowing but the two were anxious to reach their goal. Upon rounding a bend they heard the sounds of the dredge in the distance. They had reached the end of Glen Canyon. When the two boats came into view one of the men on the dredge let out a call, "There come the brothers!" A whistle blew signifying the end of the day's work for both the Kolbs and the miners. Shouts of greetings and the waving of hats welcomed them to Lee's Ferry.[32]

Lee's Ferry Nov. 7 11

Dear Blanche.

We got in here last night at 5 P.M. Got a little past the place to go out to the bridge so decided not to go back and kept drifting. I was dissapointed on not receiving any mail here from you and as there is a mail coming in today we decided to wait over and start tomorrow morning which is just 2 months since we left Green River Who.

Rust was in here and waited 2 days. Left for Kanab the day af before we got here.

We had a good run from Hite here. Nothing unusual. I am writing from my boat which is tied up to the gold dredge. It is a busy place with about 25 men at work. Looks funny in between the hills. Some Johnston boys run the old ranch and you aught to see the fruit. I now look up and see the fort which John D. Lee built while in hiding from the soldiers. I am still in hopes we can reach B.A. about the 15 or 16 watch for a fire in B.A. about that time but don't get scared if it don't show up for there are so many things that may hold us up 3 or 4 days longer.

We are tinkering up our boats a little here.

They are building a good sized steam boat up the river and when we saw it looked like that mith land ship you and I read in the magazines about. Ed says to look for a fire on the 14th but don't get dissapointed. We are getting our meals at the boarding house and since we left Green River I think my cooking is the best we have had.

An old timer is sending with me a couple bunches of grapes & apples for you and baby. They are turning to raisens but are certainly fine. I may eat them myself. We rowed over 50 miles yesterday but now will go slower on acct of rapids.

We are 161 miles from Flag and by river to you about 110.

Well I'll save the rest of this till I see if I get a letter from you. This is the last sheet of paper I've got.

Well the mail has come and you did not write so this is all I'll write.

You must be awful buisy that you could not write your only bunch of garlic.

Ed sends his love and I don't know whether I should or not but I will anyway. Good by From

Hubby.

A letter left by Rust at the Ferry warned of the danger in the upcoming Soap Creek Rapids, pointing out this was the place Brown lost his life in the Brown-Stanton trip and advising them to portage around it for safety's sake. After running the rapids in Cataract Both Kolbs agreed they would check the rapid carefully and run it if possible to show Dave Rust how well they learned their lesson on running rapids. They would get to it tomorrow.

Emery and Ellsworth took extra precaution before leaving Lee's Ferry; films loaded into holders were carefully coated with paraffin to prevent any chance of water damage, they caulked the boats where needed, and packed everything carefully beneath the hatches. Although heavy clouds covered the sun it did not deter them from taking pictures of the stone buildings and the old ranch. They even climbed to Lee's lookout for a general view of the whole area.

All the inhabitants at the Ferry came to the river to see them off.[33] These were the last humans they would see until they arrived at the foot of Bright Angel Trail. A flock of crows escorted them to the first riffle, saw them through and returned to the Ferry again. Almost at once the river ran over a long turbulent course and took them around a bend out of sight of the onlookers.

Lee's Ferry marks the beginning of Marble Canyon where the quiet smooth river of Glen Canyon is replaced by more turbulent waters. Emery and Ellsworth pushed off into the Colorado River early on the morning of 18 November and by late afternoon arrived at the head of Soap Creek Rapid that had a reputation for being one of the worst bits of rough water in the canyon. Ellsworth was determined to run it. He insisted his brother set up the camera at the foot of the falls and gave him instructions to continue taking pictures regardless of what happened, and returned to his boat. Almost immediately after launching a backwash of water that surged against a large boulder caught him. The force of the blow flipped the Defiance over and threw him head over heels into the water; fortunately by grabbing the lifeline he managed to right the boat and climb back in to continue the trip to the bottom of the rapid. On reaching the shore where his brother waited they found everything soaked necessitating unloading the gear stored beneath the hatch of the Defiance and spreading it out to dry.

Though it was growing dark deep in the canyon Ellsworth was determined to run Emery's boat through that evening, insisting he knew the channel and could manage, besides, he stated,"If I wait 'till morning I'll lose my nerve." Emery's protest was to no avail. While he waited for his brother to walk to the head of the rapid he built a fire as a beacon so the landing would not be missed in the darkness. Then he paced the shore scanning the river above watching intently for a sign of Ellsworth coming down. He waited for what seemed like an eternity.

When he started out in the dim light Ellsworth became confused about the location of the channel and again the boat turned upside down. This time he surfaced underneath, still holding to an oar that he prayed would not slip from its oarlock and leave him to the mercy of the river.

On shore below Emery strained his eyes. Finally he saw the Edith fly through the air and disappear. When he again caught sight of her, he pushed the Defiance into the water and rowed hard against the current toward the disabled craft. Just as he reached out and caught the prow rope, Ellsworth called to let him know he was all right. Holding the runaway boat with one hand, Emery attempted to help his brother to safety with the other, but it was more than he could manage with one arm, and again the Edith went free. Once in the Defiance, the two men took up the chase through the murky water. In the thickening darkness the errant craft, still up-side down, plunged toward another dangerous rapid where the river ran beneath a low rock overhang. It was known that President Brown of the Brown Stanton expedition had drowned at this point and the threat of destruction still remained. At the very brink of the rapid, Ellsworth managed to grab the Edith which had somehow righted itself. Filled with water, it was too heavy to maneuver and continued on, pulling them into the rocks below.

By this time only enough light remained to determine the location of the black hole under the shelf. Emery rowed with all his strength until he was nearly exhausted while Ellsworth held on to the Edith. Both were aware that to run beneath the shelf would mean the end of the trip and probably their lives. At the last moment a sudden change of the current pushed them away from the wall, and they managed to land at the foot of the rapid, wet and cold, and thanking God their skins were saved.[34]

From here the river threw all her might at the boatmen. They fought the muddy red water through the rest of Marble Canyon and entered the Grand Canyon at the confluence of the Little Colorado. Here they battled Hance,Grapevine, and Sockdologer rapids.[35] So far they had won. but the worst was yet to come.

Late in the afternon of December 16 they pulled the boats to the bank on the north side of the river near Rusts Camp and climbed up a short distance and built a signal fire to advise everyone at the village they were home.

Ellsworth made the entry in his journal on 17 November "Go to B.A. Trail at noon. . . . Signal has been seen. Twenty rapids above B.A. Trail. Find Blanche has been sick all the time we were on trip. Welcome Home."

[C]hapter 3

¹ E. L. Kolb's Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico, page 47.

[2] Powell named the canyon Lodore Canyon on his first trip. Powell's journal entry 9 June 1869. Frederick S. Dellenbaugh, A Canyon Voyage page 32 (University of Arizona Press 1988).

[3] E. L. Kolb's Through the Grand Canyon from Wyoming to Mexico, page 47.

[4] Mr. and Mrs. Chew. The couple had a ranch at Echo Park below Lodore Canyon also.

[5]ECK journal entry September 23.

[6] Robert Southey, poet laureate of England 1813-1843.

[7] Frederick S. Dellenbaugh, A Canyon Voyage, page 35.

[8] Ellsworth and Emery's Journal September 22-23.

[9] Ellsworth and Emery's Journal September 28-30.

[10] Ellsworth and Emery's Journal September 30 to October 1..

[11]Ellsworth and Emery's Journal October 2-3.

[12] Emery intended to write October.

[13] Nathaniel Galloway, the river runner who desired to go on the trip with the Kolb Brothers.

[14]Ellsworth and Emery's Journal October 9.

[15] Emery's journal entry 12 October 1911.

[16] Ellsworth and Emery's Journal October 20.

[17] Powell named the canyon because of the torturous course of the river. Journal entry 15 July 1865. Exploration of the Colorado River and Its Canyons page 204.

[18] Ellsworth's journal entry for October 22.

[19] J. Wesley Powell, The Exploration of the Colorado River and its Canyons, page 206.

[20] Emery Kolb's journal entry 24 October 1911.

[21] During the early part of 1920 the Colorado State Legislature and the State Chamber of Commerce banded together and suggested changing the name of the Grand River to the Colorado because the river which bore the name of the state nowhere touched it. The name change was submitted through the insistence of these two organizations to the newly organized Board of Graphic Names, a division of the United States Department of Interior, and with considerable pressure succeeded in getting the name of the Grand eliminated from official maps. Congress officially changed the name in 1922.

[22] The abbreviations stand for Denver, Colorado Canyon and Pacific Railroad.

[23] Otis Marston states Emery was sick and the two brothers remained at this camp a couple of days. This is not in accordance with either Emery's or Ellsworth's journal.

[24] Appendix I Emery's journal entry October 26.

[25] Named by Powell on his first trip. He changed the name at a later date to Fremont River. Maps at the time of the Kolb trip recorded it as the Fremont. Present day maps have reverted back to Dirty Devil River.

[26] Letter from John Hite 19 May 1912.

[27] This was Charles F. Smith. A letter received from him written from Hite 15 November 1911 was an unexpected surprise. Smith made two more trips through Cataract Canyon but the third time was his undoing. He left home in November 1913 and was never seen again. Bert Loper and Cass Hite found his wrecked boat in Cataract Canyon.

[28] Now Natural Bridges National Monument.

[29] Now written Ticka Boo.

[30] Emery Kolb's journal for Monday, 6 November1911.

[31] This boat later christened the Charles H. Spencer. After two trips Spencer scuttled the idea because the boat consumed more coal on the upstream trip to Warm Creek than brought to Lee's Ferry.

[32] E. L. Kolb,Through the Grand Canyon From Wyoming to Mexico, page 173.

[33] Emery and Ellsworth Kolbs journal entry on November 8.

[34] Ibid

[35]Ellsworth's journal entry November 15.