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July, 1989 - Rim-To-Rim on the Bright Angel and North Kaibab Trails |
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Trip number 1 - December, 1987 : Bright Angel and South Kaibab Trails
Trip number 2 - November, 1988 : South Kaibab, Tonto and Bright Angel Trails
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I was still on the learning curve for this one and not learning as fast I should be. That first hiking adventure down to Plateau Point and back in one day in the winter for a first timer with almost no preparation was not the smartest idea. The tiny (0.5 liter?) plastic canteen that froze on the way back up with no water at either of the upper two rest houses was brilliant but it was all they had at the Bright Angel Gift Shop. And that second trip, day hiking the South Kaibab, Tonto and Bright Angel Trails was a stroke of genius. We did that one in sneakers and I did fine but my wife's feet ended up with lots of blisters.
Now for my third trip I was doing a rim-to-rim over the Fourth of July holiday. I went down on July 3 and the temperature at Phantom Ranch was 120F when I arrived. I learned from a ranger that the reported temperature in the Devil's Corkscrew section of the Bright Angel Trail was 130F. In the days before the Internet there was not a lot of information on hiking or backpacking in the Grand Canyon and even books were sparse. It was hot down there but at least it was a dry heat, and yes there is a big difference. At 120 or 130F in New England, with the humidity, people would be dropping like flies. But honestly, while it was hot at the bottom of the Grand Canyon it was not stifling hot. I remember taking a plunge in the Colorado River and seeing mist rise off of my body as soon as I came out of the water. The water temperature was probably only low or mid 40s, too cold to stay in for very long. Even Bright Angel Creek was cold but that was tolerable. Luckily this was not a backpacking trip so I was not carrying much weight. I had a bed in the dorm and my dinner and breakfast the next morning was at Phantom Ranch as well. I also picked up a sack lunch for the hike up the North Kaibab Trail. While at the Ranch I got to see the second annual Phantom Ranch Third of July parade which was a real hoot. I often wonder if they have continued this tradition. The hike out on day two was enjoyable. The morning was still not too hot and I knew the temperature would begin to drop as I ascended the North Kaibab. One of the most memorable moments of that day was arriving at the pumping station below Roaring Springs and discovering the ice cold lemonade that was left out for hikers courtesy of the Aiken family. There was no one there at the time and I believe the lemonade was free but there was a jar or can or something to put donations in. It did cool off somewhat as I climbed up the North Kaibab Trail but it was still hot. Higher up I even started to get some shade, which was in short supply between Phantom Ranch and Roaring Springs. I was beat by the time I reached the trailhead and I still had a couple of miles to walk to the north rim lodge. The full trip report is here. |
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Next => Trip number 10 - November/December, 1993 - Grandview, Tonto, South Kaibab, Clear Creek, Bright Angel
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